I know, I know, I am late to the metaphoric party (so don't you dare mention that in the comments). As a matter of fact, I believe late reviews (especially the ones regarding gaming consoles) make a lot of sense: the platform has time to grow and evolve. Even so, many reviewers choose to ignore this and do not update their initial reviews as time goes by.
In this new "series" I came up with, I plan to tackle exactly that issue: I will (re-)review older successful hardware and see how it held up to the future.
In this particular article, I will be covering the original (old) Nintendo 3DS, released 6 years ago, in 2011.
Let's talk specs first. True to its Nintendo legacy, the 3DS was underpowered even by the standards of the time. This is a small spec-sheet:
The at-the-time-innovative stereoscopic 3D capability of the console brings all disadvantages of future-oriented, early-adoption gadgets bring for the average consumer. It looks nice as a sales-pitch or on paper, but the reality is quite different. In order to allow the hardware to do its job and immerse you in your 3D game, you have to keep your eyes at a certain distance and angle from the upper screen. Ideally, you have to keep the LCD panel at about 20cm away from your face and look at it at no angle at all. This is not easy to achieve, especially while commuting, as you won't be able to hold the console at exactly that angle and distance on a shaky train or bus. If you think you're cool and that those rules don't apply to you, you will have to cope with a headache and/ or motion sickness. As a way to avoid this, I noticed that simply keeping the 3D depth slider at the lowest possible setting (that means off). The system works just fine in 2-D mode. In fact, not using 3D improves overall system performance, since the GPU has to struggle less to render frames.
Speaking of which, let's talk a little bit about those dual-screens. The lower screen, the touch-screen, is where you interact with the menus and operating system. It uses a digitizer layer on top of the actual LCD panel to work (hence the name; I will try to leave a diagram below to demonstrate how it works). It also uses a telescopic stylus that is included with the console and that has a special slot to be held in when not in use. You can obviously use your fingers as well, but you trade the accuracy of the stylus for the ease-of-use with your fingers.
Color accuracy, saturation and viewing angles suffer because of the digitizer layer and are not as bad as on the upper screen, the one that is capable of displaying 3D images. Because of the way it works, 2D images look a bit washed out and the screen overall is slightly darker than the one on the bottom.
Connectivity-wise, you do get a "standard" 2.4GHz 802.11 b/g WiFi antenna, a charging-port (not the same one as on the DS-line) that does not carry data like a normal USB connector, only power, a 3.5mm headphone jack, a game-cartridge slot (compatible with both DS and 3DS games), a SD-card slot (up o 128Gb supported) to save games and other data. Unlike the New Nintendo 3DS, the original model is also equipped with an IR transceiver that allows the user to connect different accessories: an NFC-reader for amiibo-enabled games and one called Circle Pad Pro (CPP) that adds 2 more trigger buttons (ZL, ZR) and another analog thumbstick (all of these buttons are already on the New 3DS models). The NFC reader also works with the original 3DS XL and 2DS (the New models have one already embedded in the bottom screen), whereas the CPP only works with the original 3DS (the CPP XL is the one designed for the 3DS XL). Not all games, however take advantage of the additional buttons of the CPP, but here is a list of titles that do:
Furthermore, since the New 3DS comes equipped with more powerful components, some games are enhanced, while some cannot be played on the original 3DS at all. Here is a list of the ones that will not work on an old 3DS:
Here is a little trick: if you blow on the microphone while you are in the main menu, the highlighted icon will spin faster the harder you blow on it.
In this new "series" I came up with, I plan to tackle exactly that issue: I will (re-)review older successful hardware and see how it held up to the future.
In this particular article, I will be covering the original (old) Nintendo 3DS, released 6 years ago, in 2011.
Let's talk specs first. True to its Nintendo legacy, the 3DS was underpowered even by the standards of the time. This is a small spec-sheet:
- CPU: Dual-Core ARM11 MPCORE @ 268MHz + Single-Core ARM9 @134MHz
- GPU: DMP Pica 200 @204MHz
- RAM: 128Mb FCRAM (32Mb reserved for the OS) + 6Mb VRAM
- Storage: 1Gb Flash
- Display: Upper: 3.53" stereoscopic 3D-capable LCD @800x240 (400x240/ eye when 3D is on); Lower: 3.00" resistive touchscreen LCD @320x240 (QVGA)
- Camera: 1x Front-facing VGA (640x480) + 2x Rear-facing VGA (640x480), 3D capable
- Connectivity: WiFi 2.4GHz 802.11 b/g + IR transiever
- Power: 1300mAh Li-Io battery (3DS games: 3.5-5h; DS games 5-8h; Sleep: ~48h)
The at-the-time-innovative stereoscopic 3D capability of the console brings all disadvantages of future-oriented, early-adoption gadgets bring for the average consumer. It looks nice as a sales-pitch or on paper, but the reality is quite different. In order to allow the hardware to do its job and immerse you in your 3D game, you have to keep your eyes at a certain distance and angle from the upper screen. Ideally, you have to keep the LCD panel at about 20cm away from your face and look at it at no angle at all. This is not easy to achieve, especially while commuting, as you won't be able to hold the console at exactly that angle and distance on a shaky train or bus. If you think you're cool and that those rules don't apply to you, you will have to cope with a headache and/ or motion sickness. As a way to avoid this, I noticed that simply keeping the 3D depth slider at the lowest possible setting (that means off). The system works just fine in 2-D mode. In fact, not using 3D improves overall system performance, since the GPU has to struggle less to render frames.
Speaking of which, let's talk a little bit about those dual-screens. The lower screen, the touch-screen, is where you interact with the menus and operating system. It uses a digitizer layer on top of the actual LCD panel to work (hence the name; I will try to leave a diagram below to demonstrate how it works). It also uses a telescopic stylus that is included with the console and that has a special slot to be held in when not in use. You can obviously use your fingers as well, but you trade the accuracy of the stylus for the ease-of-use with your fingers.
Color accuracy, saturation and viewing angles suffer because of the digitizer layer and are not as bad as on the upper screen, the one that is capable of displaying 3D images. Because of the way it works, 2D images look a bit washed out and the screen overall is slightly darker than the one on the bottom.
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| Sorry about the poor quality of this picture, it's the best one I could find. |
Connectivity-wise, you do get a "standard" 2.4GHz 802.11 b/g WiFi antenna, a charging-port (not the same one as on the DS-line) that does not carry data like a normal USB connector, only power, a 3.5mm headphone jack, a game-cartridge slot (compatible with both DS and 3DS games), a SD-card slot (up o 128Gb supported) to save games and other data. Unlike the New Nintendo 3DS, the original model is also equipped with an IR transceiver that allows the user to connect different accessories: an NFC-reader for amiibo-enabled games and one called Circle Pad Pro (CPP) that adds 2 more trigger buttons (ZL, ZR) and another analog thumbstick (all of these buttons are already on the New 3DS models). The NFC reader also works with the original 3DS XL and 2DS (the New models have one already embedded in the bottom screen), whereas the CPP only works with the original 3DS (the CPP XL is the one designed for the 3DS XL). Not all games, however take advantage of the additional buttons of the CPP, but here is a list of titles that do:
- Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate/ 4/ 4 Ultimate
- Resident Evil: Revelations
- Metal Gear Solid: Snake Eater 3D
- Kid Icarus Uprising
- Dynasty Warriors VS
- Nano Assault EX
- One Piece Unlimited Red
- Samurai Warriors Chronicles 2nd/ 3
- Steel Diver: Sub Wars
- Shantae and the Pirate's Curse
- Moon Chronicles
- Picross e
- Galaxy Force 2
- After Burner 2
- Final Fantasy: Explorers
- Kenda Bancho 6: Soul & Blood
- EX Troopers
- Ironfall Invasion
- Kingdom Hearts: Dream Drop Distance
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| Just my "very blue" 3DS sitting in the CPP... it's sooo big like this |
Furthermore, since the New 3DS comes equipped with more powerful components, some games are enhanced, while some cannot be played on the original 3DS at all. Here is a list of the ones that will not work on an old 3DS:
- Futuridium EP Deluxe
- Lifespeed
- Hyper Light EX
- Mini Mario and Friends amiibo Challenge
- Pirate Pop Plus
- Fire Emblem Warriors
- The Binding of Isaac Rebirth
- Wind Up Knight
- Xenoblade Chronicles 3D
- Runbow
- Forma 8
Want to know what that ARM9 processor (that is present on the New 3DS models as well) does? It's simple: when you are using the console, that processor keeps the operating system running (in the foreground when not playing; in the background when playing games - that's how you can press the Home button and almost instantly get to the main menu). You may notice that the DSi and DSi XL use this very chip processor as their main processing units, so the one on the 3DS serves as a hardware-level emulator for DS games. It is what allows the console to run DS games. The only downside of this architecture? The console has to restart every time you exit a DS game... this happens because the main processor is turned off to save power (thus the large difference between screen-on times while playing DS or 3DS games).
The 3 cameras on this console are not for taking stunning pictures... unless of course, you want the most blurred and washed out pictures. Included in the box with the console are AR cards, that the 3DS can read when on a table for example and let you play some (very fun) augmented-reality mini-games.
Here is a little trick: if you blow on the microphone while you are in the main menu, the highlighted icon will spin faster the harder you blow on it.
The Bottom Line - Is it worth buying in 2017
The original Nintendo 3DS is a true successor to the DS(i). Build quality is as expected, great (this thing is built like a tank) and the design is the classic clamshell that never grows old for me.
But it is flawed. The 3D, one of the key features rarely works properly. Both screens display ugly images. Battery life is not quite there... Despite the now low price of the device (180$), you will still be paying extra for the accessories (the NFC reader and the CPP) to get the full experience. This brings the total cost very close if not just as high as the newer, updated "New" models, that have all of these accessories built-in so there is no need to carry them all around. Also, keep in mind that the new models have more powerful hardware onboard and can run [most] games at 60FPS, while the original models sometimes struggle to even achieve 30FPS.
Don't get me wrong, for me almost none of these are deal-breakers. You can still play games without the CPP (only the controls are a bit off, IMO) and only a handful of games really need amiibos to run. And for classic games such as Mario Kart or Super Mario 3D, you don't need 60FPS. If you can find a good deal on an original Nintendo 3DS, or heck, even on a 3DS XL, it could leave you with enough money in your pockets to even get a couple of games as well
I carry my original 3DS around almost every day to school or almost everywhere I go. While I grew very fond of the classy design, I am starting to grow tired of also taking the bulky CPP with me just to play those 2 games I have that support it. For me, a New 3DS is a compelling upgrade, even if I am not that sold on its gimmicky "new" features that I wouldn't even use as much. I do not own a New 3DS yet and until I do, I will not criticize it any further.
But it is flawed. The 3D, one of the key features rarely works properly. Both screens display ugly images. Battery life is not quite there... Despite the now low price of the device (180$), you will still be paying extra for the accessories (the NFC reader and the CPP) to get the full experience. This brings the total cost very close if not just as high as the newer, updated "New" models, that have all of these accessories built-in so there is no need to carry them all around. Also, keep in mind that the new models have more powerful hardware onboard and can run [most] games at 60FPS, while the original models sometimes struggle to even achieve 30FPS.
Don't get me wrong, for me almost none of these are deal-breakers. You can still play games without the CPP (only the controls are a bit off, IMO) and only a handful of games really need amiibos to run. And for classic games such as Mario Kart or Super Mario 3D, you don't need 60FPS. If you can find a good deal on an original Nintendo 3DS, or heck, even on a 3DS XL, it could leave you with enough money in your pockets to even get a couple of games as well
I carry my original 3DS around almost every day to school or almost everywhere I go. While I grew very fond of the classy design, I am starting to grow tired of also taking the bulky CPP with me just to play those 2 games I have that support it. For me, a New 3DS is a compelling upgrade, even if I am not that sold on its gimmicky "new" features that I wouldn't even use as much. I do not own a New 3DS yet and until I do, I will not criticize it any further.
Looking to buy an original 3DS and the accessories? Have a look at the links below (this really helps increase the overall quality of the articles and allows me to purchase other items to review/ talk about):
Original Nintendo 3DS: https://amzn.to/2tm1SI8
Circle Pad Pro: https://amzn.to/2llOPmo
NFC Reader: https://amzn.to/2lpIB50
Thanks for reading folks, until next time stay mobile, my friends.
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